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Low-and-slow smoked St. Louis–style spare ribs finished with a glossy pineapple–chipotle BBQ sauce that balances sweet heat with deep smokiness.
In a bowl, combine the rib rub ingredients and set aside.
Trim excess fat and the lip from each rack of ribs, then remove the membrane from the bone side.
Lightly coat each rack with olive oil, then evenly apply the rib rub, massaging it into the meat.
Set up a smoker or kamado grill for indirect heat at 225–250°F with 3–5 chunks of hardwood. Place a water pan beneath the cooking grid (optional: fill with a 50/50 blend of apple cider and apple cider vinegar).
Place the ribs on the cooker, close the lid, and begin making the BBQ sauce. Check the water pan every ~45 minutes to ensure it doesn’t dry out.
For the BBQ sauce: In a saucepan over medium-high heat, warm olive oil and lightly brown the chopped onion and diced ginger; season with coarse salt and black pepper.
Stir in the garlic paste and cook for 30–45 seconds. Add pineapple chunks and chipotles in adobo; cook a few minutes more.
Add diced tomatoes and pineapple juice; cook until the liquid reduces by about one-quarter.
Stir in Worcestershire sauce, cane syrup, brandy, apple cider vinegar, cilantro, ground cinnamon, allspice, and ground clove. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes to reduce and thicken.
Blend the sauce until smooth, then divide into two containers: one for basting and one for serving at the table.
After 3–4 hours of smoking, begin checking rib doneness. A probe should slide between bones with little resistance; target an internal temperature of about 185°F.
When ribs reach about 185°F, baste generously with the sauce and cook 15–20 minutes more until caramelized.
Remove ribs, rest 10–15 minutes, then slice and serve with the reserved sauce.
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